Once upon a time in Brittany: oysters, salted wind and northern sun

I’ve been in Brittany (Bretagne in French) region twice: at the end of May 2010 and during the weekend of the Labor day in May 2016. Both weekends we very intense and full of impressions. Both trips I was on a coast and didn’t go inland of the region. When you look at a map of the region you may think that it is not so big and it is possible to cover all interesting places in one weekend. I can assure you that it is impossible. Unless you don’t stay in each place more than 3o minutes, there is no traffic on roads and you are ready to drive all day long.

I am more for deep and slow exploration of any new region so I prefer to see less but get vibes of a place and feel its ambiance. Therefore I came back to the same place in Brittany for the second time. Thanks to my friends who welcomed me here and showed the region, both times it was unforgettable experience.

1.Emerald coast (Côte d’émeraude in French). The area got its name after the colour of water. The Emerald coast is in the north-west part of Brittany and lays between Cap Fréhel and Cancale. The green water in combination with reddish rocks creates unforgettable impression that you are somewhere on Caribbean islands.

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3.There are a lot of trekking trails alone the shore. If you are a fun of walks and trekking then you should definitely come to this part of France. Don’t forget your trekking shoes!

4.With a friend and a hostess of my visit, Elena.

In 2016 we came to Brittany during long May holidays between the Labor day on 1st of May and Victory day on 8th. I didn’t expect that the entire France (ok, not France but at least Parisian region) will be on the road to the same destination. We spent about two hours in traffic jam and didn’t move at all on some parts of the highway between Caen and Cancale. Instead of midday, as it was planned, we arrived to Cancale at 2 p.m. when almost all restaurants were about to close their doors in order to start preparation for the evening shift. Fortunately, our hosts had booked a table in advance and the owner of the restaurant was waiting for hungry guests from Luxembourg.

Cancale is a French capital of oysters (as proud Bretton people announce each time when you start talking about oysters). I am sure that oyster producers from Arcachon will argue this statement very emotionally. Although, since we are in Brittany, let’s trust locals and enjoy the view, the taste and the ambiance!

5.There is oysters market on the border of the sea in Cancale. You can buy there nothing but oysters. And wine. Everybody, visiting this place, magically ends up siting on stone stairs with a plate or two of oysters, sliced lemon and a bottle of Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc. So far nobody has complained :).

6.We were lucky with the weather during the weekend. Despite the fact that it rains in Brittany every second day, the sun shined all the weekend and it was enormously warm. On the photo you may see a marina of Dinard.

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8.Famous l’Ecluse beach of Dinard. A long promenade goes alone the beach. At every given moment there are people on the beach and promenade: you may meet joggers and sport enthusiasts, children with kites, grannies and grandpas, walking calmly alone the shore or siping their aperol spritz or perrier. 

9.While parents relax on terraces the children run on wet sand, launch their kites and even swim in cold water. What can I say – Bretons! 

10.When it is the low water the beach becomes even bigger and wider. What a heaven for children, dogs and kiters. At the very edge of the rocky point there is villa called “Les Roches Brunes” (Brown Rocks). It appears on many postcards from the Dinard. I can only imagine what stunning views its owners have every day.

11.Promenade of Dinard. 

12.At the beginning of May Dinard was covered with violet cloud of wisteria blossom.

13.Thanks to the mild seaside climate the palm trees feel themselves under the Dinard sky like at home. 

14.View on the Dinard marina at low water time. 

15. Same place but water arrives step by step. There is another nice sandy beach in this part of the town. Probably, less popular as there are no bars and restaurants around. Although calm and empty, if you search for a quiet time. Just across the street from the beach there is a big park with impressive rose gardens and mini zoo. Your kids will be happy to make a break there.

16.Twilight over the bay. 

17.Saint Malo, a big brother of Dinard and a very popular tourist destination, is just across the bay.

18.Can you find a silhouette of the villa Les Roches Brunes? 

19.Almost the night. Warm and quiet with the taste of salted water on my lips. 

 

Stay tuned and you will see how the true Bretons spend their weekends and whether it is possible to get on the inhabitant island:

A secret Cezembre island on the Emerald coast

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